Question for the Green Thumb Set
We have a plum tree of some sort in the corner of our yard that produced a good crop of tasty plums this past season. The only trouble was that most of them were inaccessible from the ground. It looks like one of the former residents attempted to cut the tree down a few years ago and being less than successful in that endevour decided to content themselves with trimming it back severely. Note the cuts at the base of the truck and the fact that they took everything off about ten fee from the ground.
The tree survived (obviously) and put out a profusion of branch starts the following year. So now all the the branching starts 10-12 feet off the ground and goes immediately up.
I want to know if you think the tree would survive if I waited until the sap goes down next winter and then cut it off at about chest height and started training the new branch starts to go out instead of up. It isn't a very pretty tree. It blocks our light, and produces fruit that we don't get to pick, but I get to run over with the mower. I'm half tempted to cut it down all together but I'm curious as to what you think its chances would be of surviving an extreme makeover.
9 comment(s):
good luck!!!
By Deb, at 4/28/2005 01:20:00 PM
By Unknown, at 4/28/2005 03:09:00 PM
Kazzymire, have you ever see one of those stump removal machines that will come to your yard for a few hundred bucks? Its every 12 year old boy's dream, having an articulated arm with a huge circular saw blade on the end that they use to grind the stump down to below ground level and then you just cover it over. Joe Otoello was in my grade or yours (can't remember which). Anyway, he is now the operator of such a machine and I saw him using it in Doug Getman's neighbor's yard a few years ago. Ever since, I've wanted to get my own and mount it on the car I commute in.
By Scott in Washington, at 4/28/2005 04:17:00 PM
By Anonymous, at 4/28/2005 04:20:00 PM
By Anonymous, at 4/28/2005 06:27:00 PM
i suggest doing it in 2 years. 1st year cut 1/2. then in spring when the new shoots come prun them also to get the desired form. then wait 2 yrs and cut off the rest of what you want gone.
orchards prune in the fall after harvest. then the tree has time before the next season and lessons the effect on the next harvest. it takes alot of prunning to keep the trees low since they want to take their natural form.
being next to the tree line also will make the tree want to grow up to compete for light.
if it were me, that little tree...id get rid of it and get a fruitless plum for the flowers. if you dont eat the fruit they attract wildlife and insects to your lot. with the dammage done and the dammage planned you could probably get a 1" whip the same size in the same time with no injury.
open wounds on fruit trees are bug candy. fruit trees are the only trees that we treet the wound. (diazanon/boric acid) it doesnt help the tree. it just keeps out bugs for 3 months or so.
Brian H
By Anonymous, at 4/29/2005 05:23:00 AM
I've read your posts over at ka-mira's site. Thanks for your expert advice. Which 'little tree' did you think I was talking about? The rhody with the red flowers to the right?
So, you think that this tree is already too big to ever be the well behaved little plum producer that I want it to, hmm? If I were to try reigning it in anyway, what are some ways I could try training the new branches to grow out instead of straight up?
By Scott in Washington, at 4/29/2005 11:57:00 AM
By Lisa, at 4/30/2005 03:32:00 PM
By Anonymous, at 5/03/2005 03:04:00 PM
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